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TIPS: Using QuickJack Perpendicular to the Wheels

I've got 3 cars and the only way to use one QuickJack was to put it inline with the frame (and wheels) on one car and across the frame (or perpendicular to the wheels) on the other two. 


There is an inherent problem when you lift the car this way.  When raising the car you end up pulling the car sideways against the wheels, rather than just allowing the wheels to roll with the lifting process.  I'm not sure how much strain this puts on the suspension parts, but it can't be a great thing to do to your car.  If you are worried about this, read on, these tips will help out a lot!


You need to reduce the friction between the tires and the ground to make the whole operation more stable and easier on your suspension.


Tip 1: Solving the Friction Problem.  

A). Sweep your garage floor, you want it free of dirt.

B). Take a trash compactor bag, (I get mine from Costco), Unroll it so it's at it's full width but folded in half (half the lengh). Open the fold a bit and spray some silicone spray in the center and put the fold back down.  Do this same process for four bags.

C). Pull your car straight into the garage, stop about a foot short of where you want to be.  Place the folded in half bags flat on the floor in front of each tire. If the Jack will move to the right as it rises, put the fold to the right.  This will keep the  center clean for a second or 3rd use.

D). Pull the car straight in over the center of the bags, don't turn your steering wheel.

You'll be surprised how sweet your baby comes off the ground!


Tip 2: Set your jacks up as close to perfect as possible.  This seems to be more critical on this type of lift than a standard (in line with the frame) lift.

A). I measure from the bottom of the front and rear tires to the edge of each frame to get them as close as possible (I shoot for less than 1/2 inch) and then double check the inside from jack to jack to make sure that's good.

B). I wish I had a good tip to move them, the best I've got is I pick up the end I'm moving rather than sliding it.

C). Do the final touch to make sure the jacks are sticking out beyond the car the same amount.  I get them as close as possible and then do a final tweek if necessary just before the blocks hit the lift points.  I was going to try a laser pointer across the rear tire to check this. Or there is the old alignment trick with a string across the rear tire and up to the front tire.

 

Tip 3: Orient the longest side of the Rubber block parallel to (or in the same line as) the lifting motion of the Jack.  This is opposite from the picture on the Specifications Page (9 of mine) in the install manual. 

 First I put the rubber blocks in the same orientation as the manual.  This seemed like a good idea at first because the rubber block covers the entire lift point.  However, as you raise the car the blocks touch the frame and get pulled sideways as the frame lifts and they it appears that they could topple over with the strain on them (especially if stacked). If you swing them around 90 degrees its more stable. Removing the friction on the tires in step one really helps this a lot as well.


Hope this helps!   I wish I would have thought to take pictures while I was doing this.

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